Friendly Kiwis

Seldom have I witnessed such genuine hospitality and friendliness as among Kiwis. No “I’m only waiting tables until I hit the big time” wanna-be’s, no “I hate my life” depressives, no “take this job and shove it” powder kegs, no obsequious “My name is Jaden and I’ll be taking care of you tonight” toadies. So many good-looking smiling young people work in the service trades and seem to enjoy it. At our hotel breakfast four waitstaff check in on our table. And tipping is not customary in New Zealand. The worst service and the worst food I’ve experienced here was in a French restaurant operated by a cold, almost hostile, French-speaking couple. Coincidence.

I celebrated the Year of the Wood-Snake dancing Taiwanese and Chinese folk dances in Saint John’s Ambulance Hall in Pakuranga. Thanks to Adony and friends, who created global folk dance Zoom parties during the pandemic, I had a local contact, Bronwena. Thanks also to the Folk Dance Federation and to all my dear teachers. The ladies and I followed Sherry, a gracious, generous and precise dancer who received the dances from now-retired elders. At first I danced with too much zhuzh for their styling and needed to tone it down. Partners touch palms together like a light caress, not like a high-five.  There is no extra upbeat for syncopation. Absolutely do not give weight; we are delicate flowers. And though they use all their music to complete a figure, the styling is to flow gently from one figure to the next without flourish. 

After an hour of dancing in the afternoon, the ladies took a break for tea. They happily invited me to join them for refreshments. Though they spoke Mandarin, catching up with their friends, we shared the common language of food. Then we danced another hour. Bronwena gave me a lift to the ferry and we parted, knowing we’d see each other on the dance Zooms. 

This proud country of 5.4 million people (Bay Area population 7.7 million) has universal health care, free compulsory education through high school, and a culture of helpfulness. I have been surprised to see large bottles of sunscreen available to share in public places like the zoo and the hotel gym. Our culture is much more “I got mine, Jack, sorry about you!” There are several boot-cleaning stations at the docks and trampers use them before going to the nature preserves on the islands.   New Zealand biosecurity and environmental measures are strict. If you’re caught smuggling undeclared food, you’ll owe NZ $400.   It is difficult to purchase a plastic bag. Kiwis carry their shopping in reusable bags. Shopkeepers will offer a paper bag, not plastic. Tableware for take-away is made of bamboo, not plastic. JG dissuaded me from hoarding my bamboo forks. I had the idea to plant them, tines up, to discourage dogs from defecating in the front yard. But he reassured me they would be available stateside as well.